Esters in the Food and Cosmetic Industries: An Overview of the Reactors Used in Their Biocatalytic Synthesis.

Esters are versatile compounds with a wide range of applications in various industries due to their unique properties and pleasant aromas. Conventionally, the manufacture of these compounds has relied on the chemical route. Nevertheless, this technique employs high temperatures and inorganic catalysts, resulting in undesired additional steps to purify the final product by removing solvent residues, which decreases environmental sustainability and energy efficiency. In accordance with the principles of "Green Chemistry" and the search for more environmentally friendly methods, a new alternative, the enzymatic route, has been introduced. This technique uses low temperatures and does not require the use of solvents, resulting in more environmentally friendly final products. Despite the large number of studies published on the biocatalytic synthesis of esters, little attention has been paid to the reactors used for it. Therefore, it is convenient to gather the scattered information regarding the type of reactor employed in these synthesis reactions, considering the industrial field in which the process is carried out. A comparison between the performance of the different reactor configurations will allow us to draw the appropriate conclusions regarding their suitability for each specific industrial application. This review addresses, for the first time, the above aspects, which will undoubtedly help with the correct industrial implementation of these processes.

Hurdles in translating science from lab to market in delivery systems for Cosmetics: An industrial perspective.

In recent decades, a sweeping technological wave has reshaped the global economic landscape. Fueled by the unceasing forces of digital innovation and venture capital investment, this transformative machine has left a significant mark across numerous economic sectors. More recently, the emergence of 'deep tech' start-ups, focusing on areas such as artificial intelligence, nanotechnology, and biotechnology, has infused a fresh wave of innovation into various sectors, including the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. This review explores the significance of innovation within the cosmetics sector, with a particular emphasis on delivery systems. It assesses the crucial process of bridging the gap between research and the market, particularly in the translation of nanotechnology into tangible real-world applications. With the rise of nanotechnology-based beauty ingredients, we can anticipate groundbreaking advancements that promise to surpass consumer expectations, ushering in a new era of unparalleled innovation in beauty products.

Marine versus Non-Marine Bacterial Exopolysaccharides and Their Skincare Applications.

Bacteria are well-known to synthesize high molecular weight polysaccharides excreted in extracellular domain, which constitute their protective microenvironment. Several bacterial exopolysaccharides (EPS) are commercially available for skincare applications in cosmetic products due to their unique structural features, conferring valuable biological and/or textural properties. This review aims to give an overview of bacterial EPS, an important group of macromolecules used in cosmetics as actives and functional ingredients. For this purpose, the main chemical characteristics of EPS are firstly described, followed by the basics of the development of cosmetic ingredients. Then, a focus on EPS production, including upstream and downstream processes, is provided. The diversity of EPS used in the cosmetic industry, and more specifically of marine-derived EPS is highlighted. Marine bacteria isolated from extreme environments are known to produce EPS. However, their production processes are highly challenging due to high or low temperatures; yield must be improved to reach economically viable ingredients. The biological properties of marine-derived EPS are then reviewed, resulting in the highlight of the challenges in this field.

Genome-Wide Pathway Exploration of the Epidermidibacterium keratini EPI-7T.

Functional cosmetics industries using skin microbiome screening and beneficial materials isolated from key microorganisms are receiving increasing attention. Since Epidermidibacterium keratini EPI-7T was first discovered in human skin, previous studies have confirmed that it can produce a new pyrimidine compound, 1,1'-biuracil, having anti-aging effects on human skin. Therefore, we conducted genomic analyses to judge the use value of E. keratini EPI-7T and provide up-to-date information. Whole-genome sequencing analysis of E. keratini EPI-7T was performed to generate new complete genome and annotation information. E. keratini EPI-7T genome was subjected to comparative genomic analysis with a group of closely-related strains and skin flora strains through bioinformatic analysis. Furthermore, based on annotation information, we explored metabolic pathways for valuable substances that can be used in functional cosmetics. In this study, the whole-genome sequencing (WGS) and annotation results of E. keratini EPI-7T were improved, and through comparative analysis, it was confirmed that the E. keratini EPI-7T has more metabolite-related genes than comparison strains. In addition, we annotated the vital genes for biosynthesis of 20 amino acids, orotic acid, riboflavin (B2) and chorismate. In particular, we were able to prospect that orotic acid could accumulate inside E. keratini EPI-7T under uracil-enriched conditions. Therefore, through a genomics approach, this study aims to provide genetic information for the hidden potential of E. keratini EPI-7T and the strain development and biotechnology utilization to be conducted in further studies.

Fungal production of kojic acid and its industrial applications.

Kojic acid has gained its importance after it was known worldwide that the substance functions primarily as skin-lightening agent. Kojic acid plays a vital role in skin care products, as it enhances the ability to prevent exposure to UV radiation. It inhibits the tyrosinase formation which suppresses hyperpigmentation in human skin. Besides cosmetics, kojic acid is also greatly used in food, agriculture, and pharmaceuticals industries. Conversely, according to Global Industry Analysts, the Middle East, Asia, and in Africa especially, the demand of whitening cream is very high, and probably the market will reach to $31.2 billion by 2024 from $17.9 billion of 2017. The important kojic acid-producing strains were mainly belongs to the genus Aspergillus and Penicillium. Due to its commercial potential, it continues to attract the attention for its green synthesis, and the studies are still widely conducted to improve kojic acid production. Thus, the present review is focused on the current production processes, gene regulation, and limitation of its commercial production, probable reasons, and possible solutions. For the first time, detailed information on the metabolic pathway and the genes involved in kojic acid production, along with illustrations of genes, are highlighted in the present review. Demand and market applications of kojic acid and its regulatory approvals for its safer use are also discussed. KEY POINTS: • Kojic acid is an organic acid that is primarily produced by Aspergillus species. • It is mainly used in the field of health care and cosmetic industries. • Kojic acid and its derivatives seem to be safe molecules for human use.

Physicochemical studies of novel sugar fatty acid esters based on (R)-3-hydroxylated acids derived from bacterial polyhydroxyalkanoates and their potential environmental impact.

Sugar fatty acids esters are popular compounds widely used in both the nutritional, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries due to their amphiphilic structure and consequent ability to reduce the surface tension of solutions. Furthermore, an important aspect in the implementation of any additives and formulations is their environmental impact. The properties of the esters depend on the type of sugar used and the hydrophobic component. In this work, selected physicochemical properties of new sugar esters based on lactose, glucose and galactose and hydroxy acids derived from bacterial polyhydroxyalkanoates are shown for the first time. Values for critical aggregation concentration, surface activity and pH make it possible that these esters could compete with other commercially used esters of similar chemical structure. The investigated compounds showed moderate emulsion stabilization abilities presented on the example of water-oil systems containing squalene and body oil. Their potential environmental impact appears to be low, as the esters are not toxic to Caenorhabditis elegans even at concentrations much higher than the critical aggregation concentration.

The structural relationship between job satisfaction and organizational commitment of beauty industry employees.

BACKGROUND: Based on the analysis results that can further enhance organizational satisfaction and response to changes in the employment environment of cosmetic employees and workers through organizational commitment and turnover intention of cosmetic. OBJECTIVES: This research paper empirically analyzed changes in employment environment due to coronavirus disease-19 (COVID-19) pandemic and 4th industrial revolution and the effect of employees and job satisfaction on turnover intention in the cosmetic industry, and sought measures necessary for conflict management in industrial sites. METHODS: A self-report questionnaire was conducted on 508 cosmetic implementers. Statistical processing of the data collected by the data analysis method was analyzed using the Statistical Package for Social Science (SPSS) WIN23.0 statistical package program through data coding and data organizing process. RESULTS: Changes in the employment environment were found to have a significant effect on job satisfaction (t = -11.728, p < 0.05). Changes in the employment environment were found to have a significant effect on organizational commitment, which is a dependent variable (t = -9.476, p < 0.05). Changes in the employment environment and job satisfaction were found to have a significant effect on organizational commitment, and this regression model was found to be statistically significant (F = 67.703, p < 0.05). Job satisfaction showed a significant positive (+) effect on organizational commitment rather than the employment environment (t = 6.235, p < 0.05). As a result, it was found that the organizational commitment and job satisfaction of cosmetic employees and workers affected their turnover intentions due to changes in the employment environment due to the 4th industrial revolution and the COVID-19 pandemic. CONCLUSION: This study focused on the relationship between employment environment changes in the cosmetic industry due to the recent 4th industrial revolution and the COVID-19 pandemic, and the effects of job satisfaction and organizational commitment of cosmetic employees on turnover intention. Based on the results of the analysis that can further increase the organizational commitment and search for job satisfaction of cosmetic employers and workers, we intend to establish the identity of cosmetic industry organizations nationwide and raise community awareness. This study will help the development and growth of the cosmetic industry by providing basic data that can be reborn as a better cosmetic service organization.

Carbon and nitrogen optimization in solid-state fermentation for sustainable sophorolipid production using industrial waste.

The use of alternative feedstocks such as industrial or food waste is being explored for the sustainable production of sophorolipids (SLs). Microbial biosurfactants are mainly produced via submerged fermentation (SmF); however, solid-state fermentation (SSF) seems to be a promising alternative for using solid waste or byproducts that could not be exploited by SmF. Applying the advantages that SSF offers and with the aim of revalorizing industrial organic waste, the impact of carbon and nitrogen sources on the relationship between yeast growth and SL production was analyzed. The laboratory-scale system used winterization oil cake as the solid waste for a hydrophobic carbon source. Pure hydrophilic carbon (glucose) and nitrogen (urea) sources were used in a Box-Behnken statistical design of experiments at different ratios by applying the response surface methodology. Optimal conditions to maximize the production and productivity of diacetylated lactonic C18:1 were a glucose:nitrogen ratio of 181.7:1.43 (w w-1 based on the initial dry matter) at a fermentation time of 100 h, reaching 0.54 total gram of diacetylated lactonic C18:1 with a yield of 0.047 g per gram of initial dry mass. Moreover, time course fermentation under optimized conditions increased the SL crude extract and diacetylated lactonic C8:1 production by 22% and 30%, respectively, when compared to reference conditions. After optimization, industrial wastes were used to substitute pure substrates. Different industrial sludges, OFMSW hydrolysate, and sweet candy industry wastewater provided nitrogen, hydrophilic carbon, and micronutrients, respectively, allowing their use as alternative feedstocks. Sweet candy industry wastewater and cosmetic sludge are potential hydrophilic carbon and nitrogen sources, respectively, for sophorolipid production, achieving yields of approximately 70% when compared to the control group.

Package design as a branding tool in the cosmetic industry: consumers' perception vs. reality.

The product packaging plays a crucial role in attracting consumers, persuading them to buy the product, and serving as a vehicle for brand communication. Around 73% of purchasing decisions are made at the point of sale. An enhanced appeal and attractiveness of the product make the selection process easier for consumers. Design and marketing are two major areas that are inextricably linked to each other. Good design distinguishes brands and makes products stand out from the crowd, instilling a certain perception in consumers' minds. Brands that meet the criteria for creating a lasting impression may dominate the market on a global scale in reality. The consumer must perceive the quality that the brand has built into the package, which may be accomplished through various design elements. Colour, shape, images, material, and package convenience are all important design elements in cosmetic branding. These elements are combined well together in a design, but there is a lack of a holistic approach in the design elements that are in line with the consumers' perspective. These aspects are highlighted in the review paper, which also looks at the importance of product packaging in cosmetics branding, and tries to highlight a few ways in which brands can minimize the gap between desired brand message and consumer perception about the brand.

Genotoxicity and Immunotoxicity of Titanium Dioxide-Embedded Mesoporous Silica Nanoparticles (TiO2@MSN) in Primary Peripheral Human Blood Mononuclear Cells (PBMC).

Background: TiO2 nanoparticles (TiO2 NPs) are the nanomaterial most produced as an ultraviolet (UV) filter. However, TiO2 is a semiconductor and, in nanoparticle size, is a strong photocatalyst, raising concerns about photomutagenesis. Mesoporous silica nanoparticles (MSN) were synthetized incorporating TiO2 NPs (TiO2@MSN) to develop a cosmetic UV filter. The aim of this study was to assess the toxicity of TiO2@MSN, compared with bare MSN and commercial TiO2 NPs, based on several biomarkers. Materials and Methods: Human peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMC) were exposed to TiO2@MSN, bare MSN (network) or commercial TiO2 NPs for comparison. Exposed PBMC were characterized for cell viability/apoptosis, reactive oxygen species (ROS), nuclear morphology, and cytokines secretion. Results: All the nanoparticles induced apoptosis, but only TiO2 NPs (alone or assembled into MSN) led to ROS and micronuclei. However, TiO2@MSN showed lower ROS and cytotoxicity with respect to the P25. Exposure to TiO2@MSN induced Th2-skewed and pro-fibrotic responses. Conclusions: Geno-cytotoxicity data indicate that TiO2@MSN are safer than P25 and MSN. Cytokine responses induced by TiO2@MSN are imputable to both the TiO2 NPs and MSN, and, therefore, considered of low immunotoxicological relevance. This analytical assessment might provide hints for NPs modification and deep purification to reduce the risk of health effects in the settings of their large-scale manufacturing and everyday usage by consumers.

Dereplication of Natural Extracts Diluted in Glycerin: Physical Suppression of Glycerin by Centrifugal Partition Chromatography Combined with Presaturation of Solvent Signals in 13C-Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy.

For scientific, regulatory, and safety reasons, the chemical profile knowledge of natural extracts incorporated in commercial cosmetic formulations is of primary importance. Many extracts are produced or stabilized in glycerin, a practice which hampers their characterization. This article proposes a new methodology for the quick identification of metabolites present in natural extracts when diluted in glycerin. As an extension of a 13C nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) based dereplication process, two complementary approaches are presented for the chemical profiling of natural extracts diluted in glycerin: A physical suppression by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) with the appropriate biphasic solvent system EtOAc/CH3CN/water 3:3:4 (v/v/v) for the crude extract fractionation, and a spectroscopic suppression by presaturation of 13C-NMR signals of glycerin applied to glycerin containing fractions. This innovative workflow was applied to a model mixture containing 23 natural metabolites. Dereplication by 13C-NMR was applied either on the dry model mixture or after dilution at 5% in glycerin, for comparison, resulting in the detection of 20 out of 23 compounds in the two model mixtures. Subsequently, a natural extract of Cedrus atlantica diluted in glycerin was characterized and resulted in the identification of 12 metabolites. The first annotations by 13C-NMR were confirmed by two-dimensional NMR and completed by LC-MS analyses for the annotation of five additional minor compounds. These results demonstrate that the application of physical suppression by CPC and presaturation of 13C-NMR solvent signals highly facilitates the quick chemical profiling of natural extracts diluted in glycerin.

Técnica modificada de blanqueamiento de dientes vitales empleando DMC peróxido de hidrógeno al 35% / Modified technique for vital teeth whitening using DMC 35% hydrogen peroxide

RESUMEN Introducción: Los fabricantes de DMC peróxido de hidrógeno al 35% proponen una técnica de blanqueamiento de dientes vitales que malgasta el producto y el tiempo de tratamiento, por lo que una técnica modificada traería beneficios materiales y económicos para operadores y pacientes. Objetivo: Describir la aplicación de una técnica modificada de blanqueamiento dental en dientes vitales utilizando DMC peróxido de hidrógeno al 35%. Presentación del caso: Paciente femenina de 44 años a quien se le realiza un tratamiento de blanqueamiento dental con una modificación de la técnica propuesta por el fabricante del producto. La modificación consistió en el empleo de una sola aplicación del gel blanqueador, en lugar de tres aplicaciones, y aumento del tiempo de exposición a 40 min, en lugar de los 10-15 min recomendados por el fabricante. Las variables empleadas para evaluar el tratamiento y sus resultados fueron definidas por el registro del color inicial y posterior al tratamiento, y por la satisfacción de la paciente con el resultado del mismo. Los dientes expuestos al tratamiento se encontraban con tejidos de esmalte sanos sin exposición de la dentina en ninguna de las superficies. Conclusiones: La modificación descrita de la técnica de blanqueamiento propuesta por el fabricante con DMC Lase Peroxide Sensy (peróxido de hidrógeno al 35%) consistente fundamentalmente en el empleo de una sola aplicación y aumento del tiempo de exposición en una sola sesión de tratamiento, aportó un ahorro del producto sustancial y condujo al cambio de la coloración final de los dientes, con la plena satisfacción de la paciente y protegido el esmalte superficial de sus dientes tratados.

ABSTRACT Introduction: The manufacturers of DMC 35% hydrogen peroxide propose a whitening technique of vital teeth that waste the product and the time of treatment, so a modified technique would bring material and economic benefits for operators and patients. Objective: To describe the application of a modified technique in vital teeth whitening using DMC 35% hydrogen peroxide. Case presentation: A 44-year-old female patient undergoing a whitening treatment with a modification of the technique proposed by the product manufacturer. The modification consisted in the use of a single application of the bleaching gel instead of three applications, and an increase in the exposure time to 40 min instead of the 10-15 min recommended by the manufacturer. The variables used to evaluate the treatment and its results were defined by the registration of the color before and after treatment and also by the satisfaction of the patient with the result. The teeth exposed to treatment were found with healthy enamel tissues without dentine exposure on any of the surfaces. Conclusions: The described modification of the whitening technique proposed by the manufacturer with DMC Lase Peroxide Sensy (35% hydrogen peroxide) consisting mainly on the use of a single application and the increase of the exposure time in a single treatment session contributed to a considerable saving of the product and led to the change of the final coloring of the teeth, which resulted in the full satisfaction of the patient and the protection of her exposed teeth and tissues.

Diferenças entre cosméticos orgânicos e naturais: literatura esclarecedora para prescritores / Differences between organic and natural cosmetics: clarifying literature for prescribers

Algumas indústrias de cosméticos têm almejado a produção ecologicamente correta e o comércio de insumos provenientes da biodiversidade. É apresentada neste trabalho revisão científica para profissionais que prescrevem esses produtos. O levantamento bibliográfico foi realizado em bases de dados e pesquisas das palavras-chave. Os produtos cosméticos podem ser convencionais, naturais ou orgânicos. Os naturais contêm ingredientes de origem natural, e os orgânicos precisam conter grande parte de matérias-primas certificadas como orgânicas. Os rótulos dos produtos indicam o tipo de ingredientes usados na formulação de naturais e orgânicos, possuem diferenças, e seus conceitos devem ser bem conhecidos pelos prescritores.

Some cosmetics manufacturers have sought to employ ecologically correct manufacturing processes and use ingredients sourced from biodiversity. The present paper introduces a scientific review for professionals who prescribe such products. The bibliographic survey was performed using databases and keyword searches. Cosmetic products can be conventional, natural or organic. Those classified as natural contain ingredients of natural origin, while a great part of the raw materials used in organic ones must be certified as organic. Labels indicate the type of ingredients used in natural and organic formulations, however there is no standardization, meaning that prescribers should have sound conceptual knowledge on the subject.

Collagen: A review on its sources and potential cosmetic applications.

Collagen is a fibrillar protein that conforms the conjunctive and connective tissues in the human body, essentially skin, joints, and bones. This molecule is one of the most abundant in many of the living organisms due to its connective role in biological structures. Due to its abundance, strength and its directly proportional relation with skin aging, collagen has gained great interest in the cosmetic industry. It has been established that the collagen fibers are damaged with the pass of time, losing thickness and strength which has been strongly related with skin aging phenomena [Colágeno para todo. 60 y más. 2016. http://www.revista60ymas.es/InterPresent1/groups/revistas/documents/binario/ses330informe.pdf.]. As a solution, the cosmetic industry incorporated collagen as an ingredient of different treatments to enhance the user youth and well-being, and some common presentations are creams, nutritional supplement for bone and cartilage regeneration, vascular and cardiac reconstruction, skin replacement, and augmentation of soft skin among others [J App Pharm Sci. 2015;5:123-127]. Nowadays, the biomolecule can be obtained by extraction from natural sources such as plants and animals or by recombinant protein production systems including yeast, bacteria, mammalian cells, insects or plants, or artificial fibrils that mimic collagen characteristics like the artificial polymer commercially named as KOD. Because of its increased use, its market size is valued over USD 6.63 billion by 2025 [Collagen Market By Source (Bovine, Porcine, Poultry, Marine), Product (Gelatin, Hydrolyzed Collagen), Application (Food & Beverages, Healthcare, Cosmetics), By Region, And Segment Forecasts, 2014 - 2025. Grand View Research. http://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/collagen-market. Published 2017.]. Nevertheless, there has been little effort on identifying which collagen types are the most suitable for cosmetic purposes, for which the present review will try to enlighten in a general scope this unattended matter.

Insect antimicrobial peptides: potential tools for the prevention of skin cancer.

Antimicrobial peptides/proteins (AMPs) are biologically active molecules with diverse structural properties that are produced by mammals, plants, insects, ticks, and microorganisms. They have a range of antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, and even anticancer activities, and their biological properties could therefore be exploited for therapeutic and prophylactic applications. Cancer and cancer drug resistance are significant current health challenges, so the development of innovative cancer drugs with minimal toxicity toward normal cells and novel modes of action that can evade resistance may provide a new direction for anticancer therapy. The skin is the first line of defense against heat, sunlight, injury, and infection, and skin cancer is thus the most common type of cancer. The skin that has been exposed to sunlight is particularly susceptible, but lesions can occur anywhere on the body. Skin cancer awareness and self-efficacy are necessary to improve sun protection behavior, but more effective preventative approaches are also required. AMPs may offer a new prophylactic approach against skin cancer. In this mini review, we draw attention to the potential use of insect AMPs for the prevention and treatment of skin cancer.

Application of microencapsulated essential oils in cosmetic and personal healthcare products - a review.

Nowadays, the consumers around the world are increasingly focused on health and beauty. The renewed consumer interest in natural cosmetic products creates the demand for new products and reformulated others with botanical and functional ingredients. In cosmetic products, essential oils (EOs) play a major role as fragrance ingredients. They can optimize its proprieties and preservation, as well as the marketing image of the final product. Microencapsulation of EOs can protect and prevent the loss of volatile aromatic ingredients and improve the controlled release and stability of this core materials. The importance of EOs for cosmetic industry and its microencapsulation was reviewed in this study. Also a briefly introduction about the preparation of microparticles was presented. Some of the most important and usual microencapsulation techniques of EOs, as well as the conventional encapsulating agents, were discussed. Despite the fact that microencapsulation of EOs is a very promising and extremely attractive application area for cosmetic industry, further basic research needs to be carried out, for a better understanding of the biofunctional activities of microencapsulated EOs and its release modulation, as well as the effects of others cosmetic ingredients and the storage time in the microparticles properties.

Assessment of lipid peroxidation and p53 as a biomarker of carcinogenesis among workers exposed to formaldehyde in the cosmetic industry.

Despite the wide use of cosmetic products, they exert a number of health effects on tissues ranging from irritation to cancer. Our study aimed at assessing the effect of formaldehyde on lipid peroxidation and verifying the susceptibility to carcinogenesis using p53 as a biomarker among workers exposed to formaldehyde in cosmetic industry. Our entire exposed group (n = 40) and the controls (n = 20) were subjected to estimation of formate in urine, serum malondialdehyde (MDA), and p53. Also, complete blood picture, liver, and kidney function tests were carried out. The study revealed significant increase in the levels of formate, MDA, and p53 in the exposed group compared with their control group. Our results showed that workers in cosmetic industry had significant exposure to formaldehyde. Furthermore, the study pointed to the negative impact of formaldehyde as a cause of oxidative stress and suspicious carcinogen.

Evaluation of the Brazilian Cosmetic Legislation and its impact on the industries during the 20th century

ABSTRACT Cosmetics have been used since the very first days of human life. This early and continuing consumption has resulted in the growth of the Cosmetic Industry (C.I.). The C.I. must continue to invest in the development of innovative products which are safe for the consumers. On the other hand, the Health Agency should issue laws regulating the development of products. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the Brazilian Cosmetic Legislation before ANVISA and the challenges for the C.I. during the 20th century regarding the development of safe and effective cosmetics, and to show the importance of this legislation in the R&D. A Bibliographic and Documentary Exploratory Research was conducted based on safety and efficacy data contained in scientific studies and legal documents. The study showed that the creation of ANVISA was necessary because no resolution had been published about the safety and efficacy of cosmetics for the C.I. before ANVISA. However, the challenges faced by the C.I. may have had a negative impact on the health of consumers. Finally, it was concluded that the actions before ANVISA were insufficient to the C.I.. Thus, the creation of ANVISA was essential to have a regulatory basis fot the C.I.

RESUMO Os cosméticos são usados desde os primeiros dias de vida do ser humano. Consequentemente, esse consumo resulta no crescimento da Indústria Cosmética (I.C.). Com isso, a I.C. deve focar seus investimentos também no desenvolvimento de produtos inovadores, mas, acima de tudo, seguros para os consumidores. Por outro lado, a Agência Sanitária deve emitir leis que regulam o desenvolvimento desses produtos. Assim, o objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar a Legislação Cosmética Brasileira anterior à ANVISA e os desafios da I.C. no século XX no desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos seguros e eficazes, bem como mostrar a importância dessa legislação na P&D. Para tal, realizou-se uma Pesquisa Exploratória Bibliográfica e Documental com base em estudos científicos e documentos legais. Dessa forma, o estudo mostrou que a criação da ANVISA foi necessária porque nenhuma resolução tinha sido publicada sobre a segurança e eficácia de cosméticos antes da ANVISA. Com isso, os desafios enfrentados pela I.C. poderiam ter um impacto negativo sobre a saúde dos consumidores. Por fim, concluiu-se que as ações anteriores à ANVISA foram insuficientes para a I.C. Assim, a criação da ANVISA foi essencial para ter uma base regulatória para a I.C..

Short antimicrobial peptides as cosmetic ingredients to deter dermatological pathogens.

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) are components of the innate immune system in many species of animals. Their diverse spectrum of activity against microbial pathogens, both as innate defense molecules and immunomodulators, makes them attractive candidates for the development of a new generation of antibiotics. Although the potential immunogenicity of AMPs means they are not suitable for injection and their susceptibility to digestive peptidases is likely to reduce their oral efficacy, they are ideal for topical formulations such as lotions, creams, shampoos, and wound dressings and could therefore be valuable products for the cosmetic industry. In this context, short AMPs (<20 amino acids) lacking disulfide bonds combine optimal antimicrobial activity with inexpensive chemical synthesis and are therefore more compatible with large-scale production and the modifications required to ensure stability, low toxicity, and microbial specificity. Proof-of-concept for the application of AMPs as novel anti-infectives has already been provided in clinical trials. This perspective considers the anti-infective properties of short AMPs lacking disulfide bonds, which are active against dermatologically important microflora. We consider the challenges that need to be addressed to facilitate the prophylactic application of AMPs in personal care products.

Behavior of Multiclass Pesticide Residue Concentrations during the Transformation from Rose Petals to Rose Absolute.

This study investigates the concentrations of 54 multiclass pesticides during the transformation processes from rose petal to concrete and absolute using roses spiked with pesticides as a model. The concentrations of the pesticides were followed during the process of transforming the spiked rose flowers from an organic field into concrete and then into absolute. The rose flowers, the concrete, and the absolute, as well as their transformation intermediates, were analyzed for pesticide content using gas chromatography/tandem mass spectrometry. We observed that all the pesticides were extracted and concentrated in the absolute, with the exception of three molecules: fenthion, fenamiphos, and phorate. Typical pesticides were found to be concentrated by a factor of 100-300 from the rose flowers to the rose absolute. The observed effect of pesticide enrichment was also studied in roses and their extracts from four classically phytosanitary treated fields. Seventeen pesticides were detected in at least one of the extracts. Like the case for the spiked samples in our model, the pesticides present in the rose flowers from Turkey were concentrated in the absolute. Two pesticides, methidathion and chlorpyrifos, were quantified in the rose flowers at approximately 0.01 and 0.01-0.05 mg kg(-1), respectively, depending on the treated field. The concentrations determined for the corresponding rose absolutes were 4.7 mg kg(-1) for methidathion and 0.65-27.25 mg kg(-1) for chlorpyrifos.